FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

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Each flange on the hub block must be folded out, there are tools for that but it also works with e.g. a screwdriver. Imagine the lid from above, at each flange you stop the screwdriver against the small edge of the flange and fold outwards. It is important that the flaps are unfolded completely, as it is a seal that sits against the jar that makes it like a suction that holds the lid, when all the flaps are out, you pull the lid up and/ or from one side obliquely up.

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Our pine tar is produced by dry distillation of wood in an oven. That is why pine tar is a natural product.

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Pine tar is a product derived from pine and contains a large proportion of resin and turpentine. By treating wood with pine tar, you therefore add these natural substances that the tree itself uses against insect infestation and other damage. The wood also gets a natural impregnation that prevents moisture from penetrating and instead allows it to breathe. This prevents the wood from drying out and cracking.

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For optimal conditions when painting, you should plan the painting for early summer/ summer or early autumn. Make sure the weather is expected to be stable and relatively sunny in coming days. A heavy rain shower on a freshly facade can, in worst case, cause the paint to run off. Wood tar dries slowly and it takes a few days before the tar has formed a water repellent protection. Be sure to cover details that are not to be painted such as doors, windows, house foundation etc. Leave the cover plastic for a few days after painting or until the tar has started to dry at the surface.
We recommend dry weather and a temperature preferable over 10 degrees Celsius. At that temperature the tar products are easy to work with and penetrate easily into the wood. It can be painted in colder weather, but the tar becomes a little thicker, harder to smooth out and dries more slowly. It is important that the wood is dry during the treatment and that it does not rain or get damp before the tar has dried. The warmer the weather, the thinner and easier the tar is to work with.

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It’s important that the surface is completely clean and dry. If it has been infested with algae or mold of any kind, the surface must first be washed with algae or mold wash. The surface must be dry before you start painting. For surfaces that have already been treated with pine tar, you only need to brush and clean off dirt and dust. On wood that has previously been painted with distemper paint, you should use a wire brush to remove loose paint. Finish by brushing off the entire surface with a soft brush or broom. Stir carefully in the tin before you start and also several times during the painting. The pigment settles quickly in the bottom of the tin, especially for the Pine Tar Vitriol, which must be stirred more regularly than the other pigmented tars.

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The consumption is between 5-8 sqm per liter for all our pigmented tars except for Pine tar vitriol which has consumption between 6-10 sqm per liter.
Our Genuine pine tar and our Kiln burned pine tar have a consumption of about 2-4 sqm per liter. The consumption depends on the type of wood, if the surface is planed or unplaned, the weather conditions (temperature) and whether it is a new or older façade. A dry and cracked façade absorbs the tar heavily so the consumption per square meter might be significantly greater than normal.

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Wood tar is a pure natural product that is relatively slow-drying. Drying time depends on how thick you paint, which type of wood is chosen, new or older facade, the weather during and after painting. Therefore, you can not give an exact time when it is completely dry. The surface begins to feel drier after a few days while the smell of tar begins to subside slightly. After that, it takes a few weeks and sometimes up to a few months before the surface is completely dry. The drying time is shorter for Tar Vitriol than for our other pigmented tar.

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Paint at least twice to get the best water-repellent protection and even color tone. Since the first coating provides good protection, you can wait with the second painting for up to a year if needed. Remember that the first treatment must have dried completely before you coat again.

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We usually recommend that you paint again after 5-10 years depending on the weather. The tar lasts shorter on the south and west sides compared to other sides. The time span is wide due to, among other things, the weather and wind, the quality of the wooden surface and where you live. Tar gradually builds up layers and the more times you have painted, the longer the maintenance intervals.

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The slightly stronger fragrance of tar diminishes significantly after a few days, when much of the turpentine disappears. After that a more soft and smoky tar fragrance comes out and it stays for a few months and then only appears on really hot days. After a year or so, you have to put your nose against the façade to smell it.

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Absolutely, it’s not a problem. Our Red tar contains similar pigments as traditional distemper paint. Remember to be careful to wash clean if the surface is dirty and if it has been infested with mold. The tar is not a pesticide and will not remove previously mold-infested surface. Preferably paint over with the same color as the distemper paint has.

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Yes, the colors also go well with planks, boathouses, piers, flowerboxes, fences, stables, garden rooms and more. Almost all wood that has not previously been painted with modern colors and is outdoors can be treated with pine tar. Tar should not be used on wood indoors.

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No, none of our wood tars, including Pine tar vitriol, contains ferrous sulphate which means nails and tins can start to rust. Ordinary galvanized nails can be used.

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Yes, regular distemper paint works well. If the surface is several years old and has stopped “bleeding” in hot weather, you can try painting over with linseed oil paint in a similar color. Test first on a smaller surface.

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Yes, on for example windows you can use turpentine or ethanol to remove tar. You can also use other paint removers. Materials such as concrete as well as pavings should be covered before painting.

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Our pigmented tars allow the wood to breathe and instead of the paint starting to crack and flake off, the surface and the pigment will slowly “chalk” and disappear. Pigmented tars works in a similar way as a distemper paint but are more durable and have color pigments that bind in tar instead of water.

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Pure tar contains no nutrients that allow mold to grow. Nothing in the tar minimizes mold if it already has appeared. It is a natural process caused by variations in climate, the material in the surfaces and several other factors that on certain occasions interact so that favorable conditions arise for the growth of mold and algae.

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Normally nothing happens to the tar. It can be stored in cold rooms.

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Pine tar is an excellent wood protection for all kinds of wooden constructions, but it is not food approved. We recommend painting the outside and covering the inside with a suitable canvas.

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Iron vitriol can be painted over as it is, but preferably use our covering pigmented tars. Pine tar vitriol can also work, but it does not become as gray and fine as if you paint on a completely new panel. The difference between these products is that the tar protects and strengthens the façade without aging it.

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Our pigmented tars aren’t completely covering. The color that covers best is our Black pine tar. However, you may need to paint it several times over a longer period for it to get a good coverage.

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It’s possible to paint tar on hardwood, but preferably wait a few years until the façade has a little surface so that the tar can penetrate better.

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Yes, preferably leave the surface for a few years until you do the first treatment.

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Our regular non-pigmented tars cannot be altered into different colors. However, you can mix an already finished pigmented tar color like black, vitriol or red with another to get a different color, here you will need to test it yourself.

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Yes, you will need a solvent like Gum turpentine to diluted, the only exception is Pine tar vitriol which has been already diluted. Dilution ratios that we recommend: unplanned wood dilute with 20% gum turpentine and for planned wood dilute with total 40% gum turpentine. You can also do your own test of dilution ratios depending on the finishing look you will like to achieve. Remember to stir it well, the pigment settles quickly in the bottom of the can, which must be stirred regularly during the application process.

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For unplanned wood, pigmented pine tars needs to be dilute with 20% gum turpentine. For planed surfaces and surfaces that are of harder wood, you must dilute with 40% gum turpentine. Keep in mind that the pine tar gets thinner the warmer it is, so just use so much that you get a good coverage without the tar starting to run. As planed wood is shiny, the tar can also look shiny the first time. You can also do your own test of dilution ratios depending on the finishing look you will like to achieve.

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If you paint on loose wood, we recommend that you paint the first coat when the timbers are flat on the ground, you then reduce the risk of white stripes on the façade when the wood dries. Tar takes a long time to dry so it can take time to paint twice if you choose to paint everything when the façade is up. This can be especially important to keep in mind, for example, your rent scaffolding when painting. Painting should not be done indoors. Tar contains turpentine which is a volatile solvent that should not be inhaled. Read more in the safety data sheets on our website.

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Only use tar for the end wood. End wood sucks about 30 times more than ordinary wood surface, so it’s important that this part of the wood is made water repellent. You can make the tar a little bit thinner with turpentine so that it penetrates better into the end wood.

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It is possible to paint on a previously glazed surface if it’s old and has started to flake. Just keep in mind that the tar cannot penetrate where there is a previously painted surface. It’s good to be aware that our pigmented tars are not opaque and that other colors or flaked surfaces can be seen through. We recommend that you do a test on a smaller area first before you paint over.

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The pine tar can be diluted with about 20% turpentine for easier penetration into the wood. There is also an old traditional pine tar coating recipe is a third of each, linseed oil, turpentine and pine tar. It can be used on wooden facades, wooden roofs, churches, boats, piers, fences and more. Pure pine tar has antiseptic qualities and can be used for veterinary purposes such as horseshoes and more. The tar turns dark brown when applied, because it does not contain any pigment, the color fades through time, but the tar continues to do its job in the wood. The drying time ranges from a few days up to several weeks.

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These are recommended to dilute with 20% gum turpentine to use on unplanned wood, for planed wood dilute with 40% gum turpentine (You can also do your own test of dilution ratios depending on the finishing look you will like to achieve). It is important to paint in thin layers to avoid cracking. Stir well on the bottom of the tin before painting; also stir occasionally during the painting. We recommend that you paint two coats on previously untreated wood. Drying time is anywhere from a few days up to several weeks. Whilst the tar penetrates into the timber, the color remains on the surface. Coverage is between 5-8 square meter per liter.

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Pine tar vitriol is ready to be used as it is, no dilution should be done. It turns brown/grey with the first coating. At the second coating it turns further gray. It is then a reaction with the sun that makes it light grey. Where the sun does not access, for example the north side of the house, it does not turn as gray. Stir thoroughly, especially at the bottom of the tin before painting as the pigment settles, also stir in the can during painting about every 5 minutes. We recommend two coats on previously untreated wood. Drying time is anywhere from a few days up to several weeks. The color remains on the surface. Coverage is between 6-10 square meter per liter.